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Stefan Stiller of Michelin three-star Taian Table has opened a contemporary European restaurant in Xintiandi called Stiller. The eponymous restaurant serves an all day menu of modern European dishes with a distinctive German touch, the latter a nod to Stefan Stiller’s heritage.
The Space
It’s located across the fountain in the main Xintiandi plaza. You’ll notice it from the bright red awnings over the terrace. The design, courtesy of A00, takes inspiration from yachts—cabin-style seating, wood-lined floors, and suede finishings. It’s a comfortable space, nothing too obtrusive.
The Concept
Fine dining brands adding a more affordable concept to their portfolio isn’t a novel idea. Just look at Polux by Paul Pairet and New Wave by Da Vittorio. These concepts are by extension a more accessible branch that takes cues from the fine dining menus and techniques at the flagships. Stiller is exactly that, and more.
Some dishes at Stiller incorporate main ingredients used in the Taian Table menus, for example, the blood pudding in the ravioli. (The ravioli is a must-order.) While dishes like the Kasespatzle, a mess of deliciously doughy noodles that would never find a place on the Taian Table menu fits in marvelously at Stiller.
The Food
As for drinks, it’s mostly wines. The selection is 60% German. Wine prices are actually quite reasonable, starting from ¥70 a glass. I had the Von Buhl Bone Dry, a dry German Riesling; ¥70/glass, ¥350/bottle.
In Summary
Overall impressions are that the food is very enjoyable. Some dishes appear to be on the higher end, while others like the Käsespätzle are within my sweet spot. From fine dining to mass market crowd is a difficult one, and I expect after a few more trial weeks, adjustments will be considered.
My selection of dishes turned my meal into a rather heavy one. If you decide on ordering in similar fashion, do get the pickles, as those will come in handy to cut the richness. I hear the fish dishes are quite well received, too.
The highlights are unmistakable. I highly recommend ordering the black pudding ravioli, kasespatzle, pretzel dumplings, and brioche pudding.
Currently in soft opening. More dishes will be added over time and hours will extend shortly.
Stiller by Stefan Stiller
Address: No. 22-23, Xintiandi, 181 Taicang Lu, near Huangpi Nan Lu 太仓路181号新天地22-23号, 近黄陂南路
Tel: 18930609363
Hours: Tue-Sun, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm (soft opening)