Shu Cai Ji is a snack shop located in a very local corner of Huangpu district near The Bund. Unlike their Zhejiang Middle Road location (hole-in-the-wall), this one has proper seating and even air-conditioning. It’s run by husband and wife, Shu and Cai. Noontime is the busiest, and a queue forms out front like clockwork. The mainstays are guotie, shengjian bao, and “caifan”, rice fried with bok choy, salted pork, mushrooms, onion, and pork lard. Their shengjian use a slightly leavened dough, so it’s lightly puffed on the top. You order inside, get a ticket, and join the collection queue. They’ve been serving since 1980, proclaiming that their shengjian are “thin skinned, plenty soupy, and crispy on the bottom.”

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