French coastal flavors dock on Donghu Lu as Pepite fires up simple, uncomplicated seafood dishes—a payoff that highlights well-chosen produce and makes for a very enjoyable, unfussy meal. The latest from the group behind Blaz and Babar, led by chef Alexandre Marchon.
It’s a welcoming corner lot—you can’t miss it—with a curved white facade and windows flung open for the street-facing counter seats, even in the sweltering summer heat. That said, prepare yourself for a humid meal. They do provide table fans, but I’d have preferred the gentle breeze of air-conditioning.
The atmosphere is buzzy with tightly packed tables, save for the central sharing table that anchors the room. And there’s even a few bar seats that peer into the open kitchen.
The menu highlights fresh seafood, whole fish, prawns, octopus, and seasonal catches that are simply cook directly on the plancha, grilled, or barbecued. These are paired with house sauces like beurre blanc and chimichurri, a selection to choose from. House specials are scribbled onto the white tiles above the kitchen window, including items like bouillabaisse.
Despite leading with their French persona, my first bite here had flavors that leaned closer to Asia, a cold starter of cubed Chutoro Tuna (¥168/80g) with egg yolk and soy sauce. Provenance be damned, because this was great. The tuna quality was excellent, the yolk-soy combo salty and creamy. Hits high umami notes and velvety satisfaction.
Next, Rillettes (¥78), a cold spread made with mixed fish, but mostly mackerel served with toasted bread. Way lighter than foie, fancier than canned tuna, it gets the job done with toasted sourdough.
Baby Octopus (¥88) arrive in a caper vinaigrette, generous with olive oil. The octopus are lightly poached, tender with a little bounce to the bite, just fresh seafood and a light dressing.
The Red Snapper (¥88), simple battered and fried, resembles something closer to fish & chips, minus the chips, unfortunately. The fish is perfectly cooked, juicy and sweet. Dear powers that be: how about some pommes allumettes?
The Bouillabaisse (¥198), at least to me, is a lighter adaptation of the hearty seafood soup. It’s also a shallow portion of soup with the grilled prawns, snapper, and clams taking center stage. While the seafood itself was delish and well-executed, the broth lacked the deep, concentrated richness I prefer in a bouillabaisse.
The Threadfin Fish (¥228/450g) was a highlight, a dish executed perfectly in its simplicity. Salted, grilled, served with fresh lemon. Good produce that needs little else done to it, cooked with skilled hand.
Wines are purely French; the house pour is a sauvignon blanc for ¥65.
Good seafood and an unfussy meal—this is certainly more my pace when it comes to seafood: original flavors, freshness emphasized, and without all the whizzbang.
Pepite
View the listing here.
