Pepite doesn’t overcomplicate its seafood, and the payoff is simple but well-executed plates that highlight the produce itself. French coastal flavors on Donghu Lu, the latest from the group behind Blaz and Babar, led by chef Alexandre Marchon.
It’s a welcoming corner lot with a curved white facade, the windows flung open for the street-facing counter seats. The atmosphere is buzzy with tightly packed tables, save for the central sharing table that anchors the room. A bit of preparation for those who can’t stand the heat: they keep the windows open even in the summer, which made it pretty humid on my visit, almost like dining in France during the heatwave. That said, the food was enjoyable enough for me to come out of it positively.
The menu highlights fresh seafood, whole fish, prawns, octopus, and seasonal catches that are simply cook directly on the plancha, grilled, or barbecued. These are paired with house sauces like beurre blanc and chimichurri, a selection to choose from. House specials are scribbled onto the white tiles above the kitchen window, including items like bouillabaisse.
Despite leading with their French persona, the first bite had flavors that were closer to Asia, a cold starter of cubed Chutoro Tuna (¥168/80g) with egg yolk and soy sauce. The tuna quality was excellent, the yolk-soy combo salty and creamy. Hits high umami notes and velvety satisfaction.
Next, Rillettes (¥78), a cold spread made with mixed fish, but mostly mackerel served with toasted bread. Way lighter than foie, fancier than canned tuna, it gets the job done with toasted sourdough.
Baby Octopus (¥88) arrive in a caper vinaigrette or is it rouille sauce? Shallot vinaigrette generous with olive oil. The octopus are lightly poached, tender with a little bounce to the bite, just fresh seafood and a light dressing.
The Red Snapper (¥88) gets similar light treatment, lightly battered and deep fried, resembling something closer to fish & chips. The fish is perfectly cook, juicy and sweet.
On the heavier end, the Bouillabaisse (¥198) is a modernized take on the classic Marseille fish stew. The soup is strained clean of impurities and herbs, a shallow pool that lets the seafood of grilled prawns, snapper, and clams take precedence. Given that it’s not what I expected, I can’t say I was a fan. I wished the soup was more intense. Clearly, it’s not the focus here otherwise there’d be more soup and less show of seafood.
The Threadfin Fish (¥228/450g) makes it obvious that Petite’s strengths lie in minimal treatment to their seafood, here, simply salted and grilled, served with fresh lemon, it’s perfect as it is. When you pick good produce, it seems, you need to do little else to it.
Wines are purely French; the house pour is a sauvignon blanc for ¥65.
Good seafood and an unfussy meal. I’d personally return when the weather cools or when they promise to turn on the AC.
Pepite
View the listing here.
