From VOS Families — the group behind Ottimo and Suzie — comes Horse & Cow, a compact wine bistro on Xiangyang Bei Lu.
It feels like a miniature brasserie: tightly packed tables, a glittering wine display, and a gold and cream palette that makes the whole room feel elegant and a little feminine. Outside, tables spill onto the sidewalk in proper Parisian fashion, and they fill up fast.
The food is by consulting chef Freddy Raoult, the group’s go-to for all things kitchen. It’s a tight menu of under two dozen dishes, leaning French-Chinese.
Start with the toasts, something of a Freddy signature. The Grilled Halibut Wing Toast (¥58) is the one to order. Rich, oily fish on a base of seasoned tomato purée, it’s bright and satisfying.
In comparison, the Sardine Paté Toast (¥58) is muted. A saucer of smooth paté with toasted bread for dipping, it’s lighter in flavor than you’d expect.
The Fried River Shrimps (¥58) are a great drinking snack. Tiny, fried crispy, and eaten like roasted nuts, popping and crunching through the salt-pepper seasoning with an aioli dip on the side.
For mains, the pasta plates impress with simplicity and comfort. The Spicy Squid Pasta (¥68) adds a light heat to its cream base. It’s just enough spice to make it addictive without overwhelming.
The Shrimp & Potato Gnocchi (¥68) turns it up a notch. It’s spicy-sweet, topped with huangfeihong chilies, a snack chili that adds crunch. The shrimp are plump and fresh, the gnocchi pillowy and tender. This one might make you sweat.
On drinks, you can expect a solid wine selection — they’re a VOS Families venue after all. The real draw is a two-hour free-flow for ¥99, with six to seven selected bottles to choose from. Hard to beat!
Good for a casual meal with wine. Snag an outdoor seat if you can for a spot of people watching.
Horse & Cow
View the listing here.
