On the quieter end of Wuding Lu, in a stretch of Jing’an stacked with ambitious restaurants, French-Chinese wine bar TonAri is the one you want when you’re not in the mood for a concept — just something chill, casual, and easy to sit down to.
About TonAri
TonAri comes from Zita Hu, a Shanghainese wine importer with a long-standing affection for natural and organic wines, a market she says is quietly shrinking, and one she’s clearly hoping to keep alive with a room that makes it feel unintimidating rather than precious.
The space is small, cave-like almost, thanks to its arched doorways that lead you into a warm, low-lit dining room. There’s a casual bar up front, a wine rack with prices scrawled directly onto the bottles, and a handful of outdoor seats for when the weather cooperates. A neighborhood hangout.
The Food
The food, French-Chinese fusion with detours into Spain and beyond, and exists mostly to give the wine something to lean on. Everything is priced to be ordered with ease, honest and comforting, with a few dishes that are genuinely memorable.
A basket of complimentary sourdough, studded with fruit and nuts, arrives promptly.
The Gambas al Ajillo (¥78) is a straightforward, garlicky plate of plump prawns — nothing revelatory, but reliable.
The Shiso Tofu Bites (¥38) are a better bet: fried tofu given real personality by a smoky, spicy green pepper sauce, with extra chili powder on the side if you want more heat.
The kitchen’s best work shows up in the Chili Oil Turbot (¥168). It arrives butterflied for easy eating, the chili oil fragrant rather than punishing, and worth a squeeze of lemon to lift it. Save some of that bread for the sauce.
Caviar Scallion Oil Spaghetti (¥58) takes a familiar Shanghainese flavor, scallion oil, and dresses it up with sturgeon roe and flying fish roe for a hit of salinity. It’s comforting, a little cheeky, and priced low enough to order without hesitation. It’s something I could easily pop in for lunch.
For something comforting and homestyle, there’s the Basque Braised Chicken (¥88). All paprika and thyme with sweet peppers and a tomato base, its easy to share and satisfying.
The Charcoal Samba Lamb Skewers (¥58) could use more fat and a little more character. Though, I’m told the other skewers on the menu fair better.
Unexpectedly, the dish I keep thinking about is the one playfully labeled the “Cheese X Durian X Shanghai Baguette” (¥58), which is, in fact, a youtiao, topped with durian and mozzarella and baked until custardy. I went in skeptical, borderline offended on durian’s behalf. I came out converted. The cheese ties the whole thing together with a hit of saltiness, and the youtiao’s crunch and airiness makes for the perfect base.
As for wines, they don’t just stock natural and organic labels, though owner Zita will be thrilled if you inquire about them. They also carry plenty of traditional bottles. Glasses start at ¥69, bottles from ¥329, and there’s a flight of three for ¥129 (60ml pours). They also have cocktails, highballs, and beer.
In Summary
TonAri isn’t going to out-cook its neighbors, and I don’t think it’s trying to. What it offers instead is lower stakes: a warm room, an honest wine list, and food that doesn’t ask much of you.
