Spanish restaurant Albaluz is one of the few decades-old venues in Shanghai still standing in its original location, serving the same tapas, paella, and Iberico pork ribs it always has. Sometimes that’s exactly what you want — the classics.
About Albaluz
The two-story building in Hengshan Fang has been its home since August 2014. Yes, it’s a little dated in parts, but visible sprucing up has been done over the last decade.
A cozy patio makes room for al fresco tables, a simple dining area sits on the ground floor, and a second, more spacious level above carries a bit more rustic charm and roominess. Barcelona-style mosaic tiles and splashes of deep red add character to this unfussy, casual restaurant.
Proprietor Jessie Peng has seen it all. After 12 years of ups and downs running Albaluz, her love for Spanish food hasn’t wavered, “it’s in her blood,” she says. She makes a couple of trips to Spain each year to not only taste-check flavors with the dishes at her restaurant but to also source new wines from Rioja to Ribera del Duero to bring back with her import company and stock the shelves at Albaluz.
Authenticity here is earmarked in the ingredients: jamon iberico, Iberian pork, manchego cheese, and high quality extra virgin olive oil. That kind of sourcing is what’s earned Albaluz its official nod as an ambassador of authentic Spanish cuisine, backed by Spain’s own Shanghai trade office. And it’s all overseen by Chef Bobo Chen, who has been with the restaurant since the beginning.
The Food: Authentic Spanish
The food philosophy here is simple: do the classics and do them well.
For tapas and pintxos, they have it all. Kick things off there, then follow with the signature BBQ Iberico Pork Ribs (truly excellent) and either a traditional paella or fideua.
If anything, you should start with this: jamon iberico.
Once you’ve tried the real iberico ham, there’s little else that can match its complex, long lasting flavor. Savory-salty with a sweet nuttiness from the pigs’ acorn diet, it’s so rich and fatty that it starts melting between your fingers. Their 100% Iberico Ham (¥228/50g) is carved by hand, served as is.
Prawns in Garlic Oil (¥88), or Gambas al Pil Pil is almost a requisite at any Spanish restaurant, a dish that revels in simplicity yet is oh-so satisfying. Plump prawns are cooked in extra virgin olive oil with garlic and chili, importantly, cooked to ‘just tender’ and not a second over, arriving sizzling at the table. The best part is dipping bread into that flavorful oil.
That bread (¥25) is sliced baguette, served with tomato salsa.
I like my sardines (¥58) with a bit of bite and these, lightly marinated in vinegar and served in olive oil are the appetite starter I’d go for.
But if it’s something cheesier, there are Croquetas (¥88/four) with iberico ham and mushrooms. Fried crisp and molten hot with cheesy potato-mushroom filling, they’re a bite you’ll need some self-control around. They’re addictive and can fill you up before the mains.
I was blown away by the Homemade Beef Meatballs (¥78) with tomato sauce. Fluffy, herbed, and perfectly seasoned meatballs in a tart-sweet tomato sauce topped with melted parmesan. It’s the comfort bite I’d definitely order again — big thumbs up.
For something a bit more basic, there’s the Tortillas Patatas (¥58), the Spanish potato-and-onion omelette. It’s a solid, filling dish between all the other flavor-forward ones.
Callos might not be for everyone, but it’s a dish that I can’t resist ordering whenever I see it on the menu. It’s made with beef tripe and intestines along with chorizo for smoky, spicy kick, stewed in a tomato base with paprika, onions, and chickpeas. Totally comforting. Their Callos a la Madrileña (¥98) does a good job, though it leans a little sweet rather than peppery for my liking, still a good, hearty version that’s all about rustic flavors.
To share is the Galician Grilled Octopus Leg (¥118), complimented by a lightly spicy, peppery, nutty sauce.
But wait. There’s also this:
Their BBQ Iberico Pork Ribs (¥228) are pretty incredible. The meat itself has a little bite left, not completely nuked down, yet still tender. The barbecue sauce is on point, tangy, sweet, savory, and spiced. A finger-licking good time that’s great for sharing. Comes with fries, unexpected but absolutely welcome.
Paella & Fideua
Finally, the traditional paella and fideua, the stars of the show, all priced at ¥258 per pan. The traditional seafood (pictured) is the one to go for, but they also have versions made with squid ink, or done with grilled sea bass, Iberico pork ribs, and oxtail with black truffle.
Between the two, fideua would be my go-to recommendation, as there are few places in Shanghai that offer it, and even fewer that do it this well. The noodles are a kind of thin pasta, vermicelli, cooked in the same flavorsome stock, seasonings, and spices as the regular paella.
I really enjoyed it. It was full-flavored and well-seasoned with visible socarrat, the crispy, toasted bits at the edge of the pan, and none of the watered-down flavor you’d find elsewhere.
Desserts
For dessert, there’s a Black Truffle Basque Cheesecake (¥58), properly cake-like rather than oozing all over the plate, very much like the original from San Sebastián. The truffle flavor is quite present, the one thing I’d see splitting the crowd.
There’s also a Flan (¥45), which delivers a more straightforward sugar rush with each spoonful of smooth custard.
But I’m definitely more of a chocolate person, and their Volcano Chocolate Cake (¥55) was excellent. I immediately tasted the bittersweet quality of the chocolate — another point for quality ingredients. Properly molten, balanced with vanilla ice cream. And after the massive meal, I still managed to polish off half of this.
Albaluz
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