Lai Lai Lai! The siren call to Jiashan Road’s newest addition, a Thai restaurant that’s fast becoming my new go-to for flavors from The Land of Smiles — flavorful larb, whole roasted fish, and sticky glazed ribs await.
About Lai Lai Lai
Slotted in between decades-old noodle shops, cafes, and hardware stores on Jiashan Lu, Lai Lai Lai stands out immediately.
Large windows, a striking blue shopfront, and a bright yellow sign frame the eclectic, sunken dining room — egg-white walls, the high ceilings of the lane house, a bookshelf stacked with old cookbooks, and busy tables all drawing the eye. From the outside, it’s like watching a supper club unfold. It feels like both worlds mashed together, Shanghai and Chiang Mai, set to a Thai rock soundtrack.
Behind this endearing slice of Thailand are chef Luke Guo and his partner Yijun. Luke, a trained chef from Jiangxi, was a contestant on The Divine Dish (一饭封神), season one of China’s hit culinary competition show. All the details that give the restaurant its charming character are courtesy of Yijun — from the handmade duct-tape welcome sign to the signed design sketch left on the wall.
The Food
This is actually the second location of Lai Lai Lai — I wrote about the first one here. The biggest difference, apart from tripling in size, is that the menu is quite different. A few classics from the first location do get carried over, but other dishes are modernized, and there are plenty of new additions.
The favorite from the first location is the Pork Larb (¥58). Having it again, I’m reminded of its popularity. The minced pork is wok-fried with fresh herbs and plenty of lime juice, giving it a bright, acidic profile balanced with deep umami seasoning. If this is your first bite, as it was mine, you’ll find your appetite immediately supercharged.
New dishes lean into more modern interpretations of Thai flavors, arriving in the form of large-format sharing dishes — whole fish, glazed ribs — that leave your fingers sticky and your heart content.
The Thai-Style Pork Ribs (¥350) is undoubtedly the hero dish. Marinated and glazed with 24 different spices, the gigantic rack arrives glistening, practically perfect. The spice mix is complex, but you’ll catch notes of black pepper, licorice, tamarind, floral notes, and sweetness, with caramelized fish sauce as the secret ingredient.
Absolutely fantastic. The meat clings lightly to the bone and stays tender throughout.
The whole roasted Threadfin Fish (¥228) is simply salt-roasted, topped with Thai basil and spring onions, so you can taste and appreciate the fish’s original umami flavor. There’s a house fish-and-soy sauce combo on the side for dipping. It’s an excellent technique for bringing out the fish’s fresh flavor.
But my favorite new dish, one that’s simple and true, was the 922 Clams (¥88), so named for the date its sauce base was created. It’s a highly complex, extremely savory and umami sauce that I’d gladly buy by the bottle if they sold it. The sauce doesn’t use shrimp paste at all, but rather an ingenious blend that includes marsala, brown butter, and meigancai. The clams themselves were fantastic — deep, fresh, sea-forward.
They also do a Beef Rendang (¥58), but it’s not what you’d imagine. Dry-spiced and tender, it leans sweet and herby rather than spicy, and packs in a ton of complex flavor despite the small portion.
It’s made to wrap with perilla leaves, raw garlic and shallots, chilies, cucumber, and shredded kaffir lime leaves. Half miang kham, half larb, it’s a flavorful, playful take.
The requisite Stir-Fried Morning Glory (¥38) is faultless. There are also options of sticky rice (¥10) and steamed rice (¥5) to accompany the saucier dishes.
For dessert, try the Coconut Sweet Potato Cake (¥45), a gooey, pan-fried cake that’s not too different from a fried niangao, but much airier, crisped on the outside, served with a sweetened pandan sauce for dipping.
To drink, the Thai Iced Tea (¥30) hits the spot.
In Summary
Shanghai’s Southeast Asian scene has grown more diverse over the past year, and Lai Lai Lai is near the top of it, balancing traditional and modern with ease. I also appreciate that chef Luke builds his sauces from scratch — you can taste the conviction. I can’t wait to go back.
Lai Lai Lai (Jiashan Road)
View the listing here.
