New in Xintiandi is Terroir Strong, a contemporary Chinese restaurant via Beijing that’s highlighting the cuisine and produce of northwest China.
About Terroir Strong
Located on the ground floor of Xintiandi’s Central Plaza, the restaurant’s design is modern and sleek, centered around an open kitchen that commands attention. Here, the eye is drawn towards steaming baskets of shaomai, flickering wok fire, and skewers of lamb turning over coals. The restaurant also has two private rooms and a terrace that runs the full length of the establishment.
Terroir Strong is helmed by founder Jia Yukun — affectionately known as Zhuang Zhuang — the founder of Beijing’s Michelin-listed Bistro Strong, and the son of the founder behind the popular chain Xibei. While the family legacy is in Northwestern cuisine, Terroir Strong is quite different; it is a more curated and elevated brand that emphasizes organic sourcing and modern technique.
On The Menu
The menu features heavily lamb and mountain goat, oat noodles, and crowd-favorite skewers, but also a few inventive creations.
Handmade Lamb Shaomai (¥58/three) reveals a dedication to craft, with a single chef dedicated solely to pounding the skins and filling. The wrappers are lace-edged, folded like a blooming flower, and contain juicy lamb and scallion. These fat purses are juicy and delicious, and have zero gaminess. The best way to enjoy them is to douse pour over chili oil and vinegar, letting the sauces seep into the pocket.
Next, Nai Pi Zi (¥89) or “milk skin,” a delicacy from the Northwest, made by skimming the skin from heated whole milk. The irregular sheets are soft and tender, dissolving on the tongue with the richness of whipped double cream. It is served with black bee honey and a lemon wedge.
Of course, there are skewers, but the most classic is the Goat Skewer with Naan Bread (¥78). It’s a serving of ten sticks, skewered with tiny savory cubes of goat atop freshly baked naan dusted with a salted spice mix.
The Mini Lamb Pie (¥88) is a clever fusion. It reimagines a Xinjiang-style bread pocket by encasing minced lamb and morel mushrooms in a vessel of flaky, buttery laminated pastry — the French kind. I recommend it.
Another original spin is the Organic Deer Heart with Chili Oil (¥98), showcases New Zealand deer heart cooked to a bouncy medium-rare. Blanketed in a mountain of chilies and chili oil, the pink-centered meat retains a desirable tenderness.
My favorite though, is the Baked Goat (¥218/small, ¥368/large), though I believe the dish is rather misnamed on the menu. It is actually a version of “Shou Zhuā Ròu” or “hand-grabbed meat.” The goat is boiled to a tender finish and served in a clear, light broth with cabbage, carrots, and radish. The minimalist preparation is the point, designed to be dipped into accompanying sauces of roasted tomato and pepper, and Chinese chives with fiddlehead fern.
To drink, the Mongolian Milk Tea (¥48) is a savory staple rather than a mere beverage. It is served with candied fruit and more milk skin as a traditional energy booster.
But they also have house cocktails and wines by the glass and bottle.
The restaurant also features a rotating selection of seasonal specials, including one lamb salami that I had on a revisit. It was pretty darned good, a little salty but flavorful, topped with pickles.
For the working lunch crowd, they even have Power Bowls like the ‘Gobi’ Power Bowl (¥78), featuring mixed greens, dessert potatoes, roasted baby carrots, pickled green papaya, oats, and cold sliced lamb.
In Summary
As Chinese regional cuisines modernize to captivate a younger generation, Terroir Strong stands among the few dedicated to elevating the robust flavors of the Northwest. It is a promising start, though the journey is long, a path one expects the team will confidently expand upon once firmly established in a city far from their Beijing home.
Terroir Strong
View the listing here.
