Popular American-style wine bistro Crush has just launched new dishes with the coming of spring. Veritable highlights see an irresistible sashimi-grade bluefin tuna steak (this is a must-order), a mouth-watering beef short-rib, and a classic duck confit with a twist.
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About Crush
Situated in Jing’an opposite of Shankang Li, Crush stands as an inviting New York-style wine bistro that boasts a modern American menu. Conceived by New Yorker Elliott Shay, a wine importer by trade turned restaurant operator, Crush naturally adopts a discernibly impressive wine selection to pair.
The menu is a blend of modern American flavors with subtle Asian influences, refined dishes inspired by American bistros with a dash of comfort, courtesy of chef Dylan Briley.
As for the space, it’s more casual than formal. The ambiance at Crush strikes a balance between sophistication and comfort, featuring a spacious dining room, a combination of high-tops, cozy banquettes, and marble-top dining tables, flanked by a central bar.
New Dishes at Crush
New on this season’s menu update are some heavy-hitting dishes. My top five favorites include the bluefin tuna steak, a wild porcini pappardelle, the fork-tender beef short-rib, duck confit, and miso-roasted black cod.
The sashimi-grade bluefin tuna is the shining star of the meal. A large filet of bluefin tuna is quickly grilled on both sides and seasoned with salt, served with shoyu glazed spinach, grilled lemon, and truffle ponzu soy. Pure and simple, it’s a product that does not want for any additional flavoring. The tuna is extremely fresh, fatty, and buttery, and I believe is of the same quality coveted by respected omakase houses. It has a deep and robust flavor, and a fresh saltiness, as though it jumped right out of the ocean and onto the plate.
Next, a pappardelle with Yunnan porcini mushrooms in white wine truffle butter sauce with fresh herbs, red chili, and candied pistachios. Meaty and earthy mushrooms with the surprising crunch of pistachios, cut with a buttery sauce and freshly shaved pecorino.
Then, a USDA Choice Bone-In Beef Short Rib that brings down the house. Impressive to behold, the full short rib roast is a whopping portion for four or more to share. The fork-tender slab is a labor of love, slow-cooked overnight, then smoked, then constantly brushed with a savory house barbecue glaze as it roasts until a caramelized sheen forms. Served with a delicious apple butter, sautéed kale, and bright cherry gastrique. The meat is extremely tender and juicy, coupled with a rich and complex glaze lightened by its citrusy sister sauces.
Crush also has a few classic dishes, skillfully elevated of course. One is a miso-marinated black cod, roasted and flavor locked, served with truffle ponzu sauce, fragrant roasted scallion oil, and baby coriander. It’s one of those timeless pairings—miso and cod—that is universally liked, and I, for one, am a sucker for cod’s buttery, flaky texture.
The other is a classic spiced duck confit served with lavender honey vinaigrette, chimichurri pesto, and shallots pickled with fresh beet juice and red wine vinegar. These elements give way to sumptuous crispy duck fat roasted potatoes. The duck has a desirable crispy crack upon first cut and is absolutely flavorful. A match made in heaven when combined with the chimichurri pesto and the gentle acidity of the shallots.
There’s also a Crispy Skin Salmon — don’t turn your nose up at the humble salmon filet, as this simple dish brings with it an uplifting pairing of flavors. The salmon is seared to a crispy finish yet still pillowy soft on the inside, a fantastic texture that all seared salmon filets should aspire to. It comes with zingy accompaniments of Thai coconut milk infusion, crispy shallots, and sour mango salad, unusual combinations, ones that I find refreshing and playful, and offers a contrast of flavors.
One of many steaks available on the menu, the Australian M7 Wagyu T-Bone Steak comes served with house sweet potato fries, sautéed porcini mushrooms, caramelized bone marrow, and grilled broccolini. A well-marbled cut as M7s tend to be. The mushrooms are a welcome surprise, its fleshiness a nice contrast to its meaty accompaniment.
For starters, sample the bite-sized arancini, available in two varieties: Iberico Arancini with smoked pepper aioli, sweet chili jelly, and truffle or Yellowfin Tuna Arancini with smoked chimichurri aioli, and sweet pepper gremolata. The Wagyu Beef Bolognese Jiaozi is more substantial — jumbo-sized jiaozi filled with beef bolognese sauce and pan-fried, served over fresh basil marinara and topped with crispy parmesan.
For dessert, it’s Stories By The Campfire, smores over a wood fire in ice cream form. Made with miso vanilla, smoked marshmallows, and graham cracker cookie dough. The smore flavor is subtle, as is its smokiness, and not too sweet, which is appreciated.
Wines To Drink
To complement the culinary highlights, a glass, nay, a bottle of wine perhaps. The extensive selection features about 200 labels, personally selected by Elliott. Wines start from an amicable ¥60 a glass, ¥300 for a bottle. Crush, being a wine bar, also offers wine flights, a selection of four vins from ¥150.
Crush also serves brunch on weekends, ¥198 for two dishes and a coffee or juice; free-flow from ¥198. Details about that here.
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Crush
Address: 819 Shaanxi Bei Lu, near Changping Lu 陕西北路819号, 近昌平路
Tel: 62199005
Hours: Tue-Fri, 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11:30am-1am; closed Mondays
