Legendary omakase chef Takeo Oyama returns to Shanghai, reopening Sushi Oyama within Xintiandi Galleria. Detta!
Sushi Oyama, Takeo Oyama
Behind the counter is chef Takeo Oyama, a foundational figure in Shanghai’s culinary landscape when it comes to sushi. He first rose to prominence in 2010 with the original Sushi Oyama on Donghu Lu, a beloved institution that thrived until its closure in 2018. A trailblazer for Shanghai’s omakase scene, Oyama-san is known for a style that walks the line between traditional technique and contemporary flair, all delivered with his characteristically boisterous nature.
My history with Oyama-san runs deep; it was one of the first restaurants I reviewed as a novice food writer. I fondly recall his dedication, his patience in explaining each piece to an unfamiliar diner (myself back then), and the infectious energy that often culminated in a rowdy, communal kanpai with his regulars. That spirit remains. He is still an instigator when it comes to that end-of-the-meal rowdiness, though the evening’s mood ultimately depends on your fellow diners.
The Food
My recent meal brought vivid flashbacks. For newcomers, his culinary approach is an eclectic mix of the classic and the unexpected.
The omakase menu is priced at ¥980 or ¥1,280 per person, and a lunch menu is available for ¥800. The offering is sushi-forward — the ¥1,280 menu includes about eight pieces of high-quality sushi, as well as soup, sashimi, grilled dishes, and dessert. Oyama-san has a particular affinity for torched akami, the lean cut of tuna, which is likely to be a part of most meals here.
The meal began with a deeply flavored king crab soup, a clean three-piece sashimi plate, a course of expertly grilled fish, and an introduction to grilled tuna bloodline, the nutrient-rich, darker meat close to the spine, which was a first for me.
Then, the sushi: tuna (both belly and those torched lean cuts), sweet shrimp, sea urchin, horse mackerel, ark shell clam, and roasted eel. The procession was punctuated by dishes like tempura, decadent monkfish liver, and a myriad of pickles. Dessert was a simple, seasonal sorbet.
In Summary
This is not Shanghai’s most opulent sushi experience; it forgoes lavish toppings of foie gras or caviar, at least from my experience. The focus is squarely on the product itself. For those new to omakase, it is a solid and welcoming introduction.
For former fans like myself, its value is simpler: it is a genuine pleasure to have Oyama-san back on duty.
Sushi Oyama
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