At Yeats, a modern Irish bistro on Yanping Lu, the classic comforts of Ireland are reimagined with French technique and a subtle Chinese inflection.
Yes, there are potatoes, stews, fried snacks — but this is not your typical pub grub.
The Space
It’s on the second floor of 98 Yanping Lu, up the same stairwell that leads to Terrakota. The space wraps around a central bar, creating a cozy and handsome setting that feels both refined and welcoming. It’s a room that invites you to settle in.
The vision comes from executive chef Curt Evans (yes, he’s Irish), who seeks to elevate the humble, soulful staples of Ireland into something singular and smart.
What Does Modern Irish Food Look Like?
To begin, you must try the Guinness and Treacle Bread (¥38). This dense, moist loaf, sweetened with treacle and studded with dried fruit, possesses a tender crumb beneath a crisp crust. Generously slather your slice with the deeply savory miso nori butter.
Naturally, the potato gets its moment. The Smoked Potato (¥78) comes as a cloud of potato foam, rich with Irish butter and parmesan cheese, concealing tender cubed potatoes beneath. It’s a comforting and elegant integration of the Irish staple.
Fried snacks are executed with finesse. The Venison Croquettes (¥98) are flawless, golden pockets revealing a juicy, tender filling, their richness cut by sharp horseradish and a dollop of mayonnaise.
The Beef Tartare (¥128) takes a local twist. Hand-cut wagyu is paired with charred green peppers, funky preserved egg, and crisp celtuce, served with nori tapioca chips. It has a notably spicy profile, a heat that somewhat overshadows other dishes when eaten alongside.
The Bacon and Cabbage (¥168) presents a generous log of charred, house-cured bacon, glazed and sectioned for sharing. It is served with cabbage, paired whole grain mustard veloute, the perfect accompaniment.
For something more elegant, the Braised Beef Cheek (¥288) is a worthy main. The meat is tender but not to the point of collapsing, crowned with crispy quinoa for texture and accompanied by a crispy potato pave and onion jam.
As for drinks, wines lean towards the natural selection, with glasses from ¥68 and bottles from ¥328. Cocktails are built on Irish spirits.
The non-alcoholic Pink Guava Oolong Tea (¥58) is a bright and worthy option.
Yet, in a space like this, one drink feels most appropriate: a perfectly poured pint of Guinness (¥58).
