Head to San Lin Tang, a 40-year-old Shanghai noodle and dumpling shop in Huangpu district for some delicious noodles with braised meat and fat pork-filled dumplings.
Update:
San Lin Tang has moved to 226 Hengshui Lu (衡水路226号) in Hongkou District, and it is still run by its original staff. While its new home doesn’t have the same authentic “old Shanghai” feel as its previous location, it does have a proper kitchen, air-conditioning, and plenty more seats.
Noodles are just as good! Plus, they’ve extended hours a bit to just after 8pm.
About San Lin Tang
San Lin Tang (三林塘馄饨店) opened on Jiang Xi Zhong Lu in 1981, long before the Oriental Pearl Tower was even built.
This humble noodle and dumpling shop has gained acclaim over the years, and has been featured in numerous TV shows and segments about Shanghai food and culture. It retains the unique atmosphere of a bygone street food era, and it is an experience that is worth a notch in your book.
Lunch is peak time. From 11:30am to 1:30pm, the shop is swarmed by Shanghai residents, nearby office workers, and out-of-towners looking to sample a bowl of the famous noodles. Bodies invade the street, much to the chagrin of passing traffic.
The kitchen is a well-oiled machine, a tight and efficient space with three cooks rotating around trays of freshly made noodles, vats of boiling water, smoky woks, and a line-up of noodle toppings. The matron, a sharp-witted and quick-footed lady, a fair referee when it comes to “who was in line first,” is quick to relay patron orders.
Left of the kitchen are the dining areas, some of which also spill out onto the street. The adjacent room seems to be part of the original lot, but over time, San Lin Tang has crept along the row, taking over neighboring spaces for more seating. One of the spaces even encroaches into a resident’s parking garage. Though, I understand that this a friendly arrangement with the upstairs neighbor. It certainly makes for a unique setting.
Shanghai Noodles: What To Order
San Lin Tang is famous for two things: braised intestine noodles and pork dumplings.
Noodles can be adorned with any combination of toppings, a style called jiaotou mian (浇头面), which means “topping” or “topped” noodles. The menu is affixed to the wall, a bright red board of noodle combinations, dumplings, and add-ons.
This is what you should order:
小叶老样子
Xiǎo yè lǎo yànɡ zi
Xiao Ye’s “The Usual”
The origin story of this combo stems from a regular customer’s usual order, the same dear friend who took me to this delicious corner of Huangpu. It is not a combo that’s actually listed on the menu, so you’ll have to ask for it, or show the order name above.
Xiao Ye’s “The Usual” is ¥52, a massive bowl of noodles that comes with minced pork, braised intestines, kaofu, egg (hard-boiled or fried), soy-braised mushrooms, and two massive dumplings. Basically, noodles with everything. Every order of noodles also comes with a bowl of soup, a very light broth seasoned with white pepper.
I’m a huge fan of braised intestines, and evermore pleased that San Lin Tang does a non-sweet version of braised meats, unlike other Shanghai noodle shop which are usually sweet. They employ soy sauce as the key flavor in addition to seasonings of five spice and white pepper.
As for the intestines, it is expertly prepared, braised in a way that whittles down its natural funk to a mild aroma. The braised kaofu (wheat gluten) is another unassuming highlight of the toppings, and comes in the form of large leafy triangles, tender and flavor soaked. Noodles used are made fresh every morning.
There are also plenty of other options if intestines aren’t your thing.
The Pork Dumplings (¥20/eight, 菜肉大馄饨) are massive pouches of pork mince and shepherd’s purse, a fragrant leafy green that is slightly sweet with a light flowery aroma.
The skins are thicker than other dumplings I’ve tried but still cooked to firm and velvety in texture, and the size is large, probably three bites worth. Delicious and well seasoned, goes well with the table chili sauce. Frozen dumplings are also available for takeaway, ¥26 for a dozen.
San Lin Tang 三林塘馄饨店
Address: 226 Hengshui Lu 衡水路226号
Tel: 13524723512
Hours: Daily, 6am-8pm
Previously located at: 416 Jiangxi Zhong Lu, near Beijing Dong Lu 江西中路416号, 近北京东路
