Nono’s is not just dabbling in “Chinese-Italian” cuisine, it’s cementing it. The grown-up, sexy upgrade to sister restaurant Yaya’s is serious about merging the two worlds cuisines, served in a handsome space that’s poised to become Xuhui’s next hotspot.
Finding Nono’s: Hidden in the Former French Concession
Part of the experience is finding it.
A stark, office-like door on Yongfu Lu leads upstairs to a discreet logo and tinted glass. Past that, a curtained anteroom gives way to the reveal: a vibrant dining room buzzing with low-key cool.
A row of seats faces the open kitchen and bar counter, anchored by a statement chandelier, while two semi-private rooms offer a bit of seclusion. The vibe is youthful, hip, and subtly classy. A well-curated playlist on a proper sound system completes the atmosphere.
Chinese-Italian Cuisine is More Than “Fusion”
In the kitchen is Chef Chris Zhu, formerly of Blaz. At Nono’s, he gets to call on his heritage, fully integrating flavors from across China into the very heart of the menu. You might scan it with a skeptical eyebrow, but the first bite brings a head-tilt of understanding. The dishes work!
The meal kicks off with complimentary focaccia served with a garlicky tapenade and pickles. It’s a nice, honest start.
First, be sure to ask about the cold cuts platter, Nono’s Salumi (¥88-¥198), which comes with house grissini. It’s an off-menu dish due to limited supply, and it’s where Chris’ commitment shines. He makes all the charcuterie in-house, with a Chinese twist. The pancetta is buttery, the bresaola intensely beefy. The duck carries a sweet hint reminiscent of hoisin sauce, and the mala salami is heady with Sichuan peppercorn. The quality, flavor, and texture are spot on.
For a playful start, try the Mud Snail Cannoli (¥58/two). Traditional cannoli shells are filled with airy mascarpone and mud snail cured in zaolu (fermented rice lees), which hides within the roll like a little surprises. It’s a clever bite, creamy with a light, boozy sweetness from the zaolu.
For a taste of decadence, the Foie Gras Toast (¥98/2), topped with duck prosciutto and cherry jam. Think ice cream sandwich, but with foie.
The Cacio e Pepe Arancini (¥88 for four) are good, cheesy with Canto-cured beef short rib, but if I’m being honest, the sauce completely steals the show. The sauce is punchy and umami-loaded, spicy with a lingering heat and velvety smooth. Seriously, I’d dip all the foccacia in there.
Next, the Trippa alla Canto (¥128) goes full Guangdong. Tender honeycomb tripe is served with a potent garlic-chili sauce, something you’d ladle over rice in a canteen down south. A solid sharing starter for tripe lovers.
Nono’s also has pizzas, but don’t expect full-sized traditional pies. Think of them as elegant carb alternatives with creative toppings. The Guizhou Mussels (¥128) comes with fat, juicy mussels, a fermented tomato sauce base, fior di latte, and chili paste.
I preferred the Mussels over the Mala Diavola (¥128), topped with house-made mala salami, spicy provolone, and fontina cheese.
For pasta, the Tortellini in Brodo (¥168) delivers subtle nostalgia. Likely inspired by Cantonese-style wontons, the little pasta parcels are filled with shrimp mousse and served in a buttery, comforting chicken broth with clams and Thai basil.
The Star: Claypot Roasted Chicken
Finally, the undeniable signature, the Claypot Roasted Chongming Yellow Chicken (¥258), a dish I firmly recommend. Yes, there’s tableside truffle and parmesan shaving for a bit of theatre, but I think it needs no fanfare. The chicken is insanely juicy and flavorful, and the sauce a deep, velvety mushroom essence, served with large, meaty mushrooms.
End with the Dark Chocolate Mousse (¥88). It’s actually a two-fer: a velvety mousse with preserved cherries (a nod to their double cherry logo) paired with a savory parmesan ice cream hiding crushed Speculoos at the bottom. Each is great alone, but together they create a complex, flavor bomb.
To Drink, Wines & Cocktails
For drinks, their wine cellar is more about diversity rather than quantity. While modest in size, the cellar carries nearly 300 different varieties of wine, which rotates often. House pours are ¥88.
They also have a handful of house cocktails, classics with a twist, as well as martinis, all for ¥98 each. The Cherry Bomb (¥58) mocktail was delish, made with Amarena cherries, vanilla, lime, and soda.
In Summary
Nono’s is hip, on-trend, and exactly what the Yaya’s crew does well, just classier. The food is polished and considered, balancing creativity without overplaying their hand. While not every dish is flawless, the majority are strong. And judging by the weekend scramble for tables, it’s a formula that’s working.
Overall, it’s perfectly set for an impressive date night or a lively dinner with friends.
Nono’s
View the listing here.
