Cila is a contemporary Chinese restaurant inspired by Xibei cuisine from the northwestern region of China. Charcoal grilling plays a key role in the conception of the menu.
About Cila
Located on Wulumuqi Nan Lu in the former 404 Izakaya space, the restaurant adopts the favored “strip-bare industrial” look. Granite frames the open kitchen and dark stone textures give the space its moody and in-trend look. It has that popular Chinese wine bar look, and wine bottles are prominently displayed throughout the dining room. There’s also a small wine room tucked into a corner of the space.
The Food
The restaurant is led by chef Mario Chen, formerly sous chef at Jean Georges Shanghai. Beef and lamb from Ningxia and Gansu are prominent ingredients, used in multiple dishes from chops to skewers, and sour, spicy, garlicky, and cumin-permeated flavors take the lead.
Of the signature dishes, there’s the Charcoal Grilled Ningxia Lamb Chops. Chops are garnished with shaved parmesan and crusted with dry spices, served with Chinese leek sauce and garlic scapes. The quality and flavor of the lamb is undeniable, but the spices, which felt to me like an afterthought, didn’t quite enhance the meat. The garlic scapes were very smoky and crunchy, and more memorable. The Sautéed Beef Brisket Fat with Dried Chili is also popular, a fun snack of crunchy fried beef brisket fat coated in dry spices.
Don’t miss the Oil Splashed Noodles, an off menu dish of you po mian (油泼面) with fresh-made thick wavy noodles in a mixture of spices, soft-boiled egg, minced meat, veg, and pickles. Comforting and great in flavor. Another must-try item is the Shaanxi Style Potato Gnocchi, served in a broth that reminds me of borscht, but with a lot more spice and aromatics, and a touch of acidity. The gnocchi has fantastic texture, almost as though they were sautéed to crisp and a doughy center.
The beef tongue has a hint of smokiness and a nice tang from the citrus glaze. However, the exterior was a little hard, not my preferred texture when it comes to beef tongue.
The fieriness of the chilies is like winning the lottery — it could be mild or burn your face off hot. I’d have done pork shoulder instead of belly, some pieces were overly greasy.
Drinks include some cold brew teas with Xinjiang cheese (¥68/pot), cocktails from ¥68, and wines aplenty.
In Summary
The contemporary take on the cuisine is quite subtle, mostly in plating and sauces, at least for now. Some dishes were a little lackluster, and flavors tended to be too similar — it felt like the same ol’ spice combos. Though, I think it has potential to mature into an interesting concept.
Cila 恣辣·大西北炭火厨房
Address: 122 Wulumuqi Nan Lu 乌鲁木齐南路122号
Tel: 64226227
Hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-2pm; 5:30pm-11pm; closed Monday
