Spotlighting Nyonya Kuih, a category of desserts from the Peranakan culture of Malaysia and Singapore, available in Shanghai at Nectar.
For those missing the taste of home or curious fans of desserts that are both sweet and savory, it’s just a quick trip to Changning district or a Meituan click away.
What Are Nyonya Kuih?
Nyonya Kuih are bite-sized jewel-toned desserts or snacks that are sweet or savory or both, and are usually steamed or sometimes baked. At their core lies a holy trinity of ingredients: Gula Melaka (the rich, caramel-like palm sugar from Melaka, Malaysia), fragrant pandan leaves, and creamy coconut milk.
But these colorful treats are more than just dessert — they’re a kind of intangible cultural heritage of the Nyonya or Peranakan people. (Kuih is not listed on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritages, but it should be!)
The origins of kuih (or kueh) can be traced back to the Peranakan people, Chinese settlers who migrated to Southeast Asia sometime between the 14th and 19th centuries and intermarried with Malay communities. This blending of cultures gave birth to the Baba Nyonya tradition, a unique fusion of Chinese and Malay influences that has its own fashion, culture, and cuisine.
About Nectar Shanghai
At Nectar, established in 2017, Singaporean founder Cher Lim has made it her mission to honor the authenticity of kuih. She also draws a hard line: no preservatives and no artificial additives. That’s right, everything at Nectar is made from fresh ingredients and colored using carrot juice, beetroot, spinach, butterfly pea flower, and patiently simmered pandan leaves.
Come festive seasons like Chinese New Year or Christmas, they also roll out gift boxes and special treats like Pineapple Tarts.
The shop is tucked away in Metro Town Mall in Changning district. The mall itself is sleepy and a bit of a ghost town, and perhaps only worth popping into just for Nectar.
The Kuih at Nectar
Without further ado, here are some of the kuih at Nectar.
Kuih Dadar is a Malay kuih that showcases Gula Melaka. A spongy pandan crepe encases desiccated coconut meat and palm sugar. It is one of my absolute favorites! The shredded coconut is steamed then fried with palm sugar, caramelizing both together. It reheats fantastically in the oven.
Ang Ku Kuih (in Hokkien) has a red chewy skin and is traditionally filled with mung bean paste, usually eaten during celebrations. Nectar has fillings of mung bean, sweet potato and peanut, and coconut with Gula Melaka.
Kueh Salat (or Seri Muka) has savory glutinous rice colored with butterfly pea as the base, and a green layer made with rice and mung bean flour, flavored with pandan. It’s sweet and savory in one bite. It is often mistaken for Kuih Talam, another classic.
Kuih Lapis or Nine Layered Rainbow Cake is made by individually steaming multi-colored layers of cake on top of each other. Its texture is wobbly, soft yet firm, and springy, and is primarily flavored with coconut milk.
The proper way to eat this cake is one layer at a time by gently peeling them off.
Ondeh Ondeh are chewy little balls filled with Gula Melaka. It is a little sweeter than the other kuihs, but oh-so delightful for those who enjoy its richness. These are one-biters — as they explode with a burst of melted palm sugar.
Soon Kueh is a savory kuih of Teochew (Chaoshan) origin. Its skin is made with gummy-gooey rice-tapioca flour, encasing shredded bamboo, turnip, and dried shrimp. It is served with a splash of soy sauce and shrimp chili crisp.
Nectar also does some hot dishes, including curry puffs, a pastry snack filled with curried chicken. Curry puffs are typically deep-fried, but the ones at Nectar are made with a French pastry and are baked, a healthier twist on the original. It’s flaky and flavorful, and fragrant with spices and lemongrass.
For something more substantial, they also have Curry Chicken with coconut rice. It’s more of a home-style version, spicy and comforting, and generous in portion.
Nectar also does Pandan Swiss Roll (¥258), Pandan Chiffon Cake with or without Gula Melaka cream (from ¥38/4’’ to ¥988/16’’), Kaya Cake (¥248) and custom cakes. The chiffon cakes are also available for delivery nationwide, sans Gula Melaka cream.
The kuih are best enjoyed fresh, ideally on the same day. Wait too long, and they’ll lose their delicate texture. The chiffon cakes are a bit more forgiving. Larger format cakes and platters require pre-order. Actually, pre-order anything if you can to avoid disappointment.
FYI: Kuihs are usually sold out by early evening. Not all kuihs are listed on Meituan. It’s also advisable to order via their Youzhan page, QR code below.
