Swirl is the newest cocktail bar by the SG Group, serving up wine cocktails that are “not shaken, not stirred, just swirled.”
It is an imported concept from the SG Group’s Swrl in Tokyo, now closed. The SG Group also operates Sober Company, Speak Low (the group’s first Shanghai bar and arguably the most popular), and The Odd Couple. It’s all headed by acclaimed mixologist Shingo Gokan, whose bars have consistently ranked on award winning lists like the 50 Best Bars.
About Swirl
The space is enticing and convivial. It’s a lanehouse space with two floors, the bar on the ground floor with high-top tables and a street view. It’s dimly lit, atmospheric, and charming.
Wine cocktails (or is it winetails?) are split by light, medium, and full body on the menu and range from ¥90 to ¥125. The base of the drinks is wine, mixed with flavor infused spirits and mixers.
My first impression was that mixing wine and spirits is a no-go, and that you’re just asking for a hangover. While I can’t quite prove the latter, I can say that the cocktails were surprisingly enjoyable, and even a bit mind-boggling when it came to smell vs taste. Aromas and flavor sometimes match up, while others are a curious opposite, but in a good way.
The Cocktails
Cocktails more or less look the same. They are all served in the same wine glass, and are different shades of pale straw, pink, ruby red, or merlot.
The Sicily (¥90) proved to be an excellent starter cocktail, refreshing and bubbly, and a hint of smokiness. It’s made with Vinho Verde Portuguese wine, bergamot, and lemon. The Kagoshima (¥95) is the complete opposite. It is a savory concoction of sweet potato shochu and bonito with pinot noir. The bonito aroma is prominent and amplifies the savory profile.
If you couldn’t yet tell, inspirations draw from destinations around the world. Next up is Samui (¥90), made with inspiration from “Thai street food” and sauvignon blanc. Primary flavors are lemongrass and fresh citrus, a clean tasting drink with an island feel.
Also memorable was the Melbourne (¥95) and the Shanghai (¥95). The Melbourne is made with milk brewed coffee and chardonnay, a smooth drink with intense coffee notes, while the Shanghai, made with lychee and jasmine with muscat, was surprisingly oaky and slightly sweet.
A few wines are also available by the glass, and plenty more by the bottle. For alternative libations, they also have beer and a couple highballs, as well as cold brew coffee and kombucha.
The Food
The food menu is courtesy of chef Fumio Yonezawa, who also consults with Shingo at YONE. It’s a tidy menu of 10 items from snack plates to stews.
Of the snack dishes, there’s an Avocado Hummus, a combo of avocado and tahini served with tomato salsa and tortilla chips. Then, for something a little embellished, a soft-boiled egg with truffle over a potato salad, served with chipotle mayo.
One that emphasizes their Japanese roots is the Jerk Chicken Tsukune. The tsukune, a chicken meatball on a stick, is served with black pepper sauce and herbs. It is mighty tasty, but I wouldn’t call it “jerk seasoning.”
If you’re into beef tripe, I’d recommend the Chili Beef Stew, which tastes exactly like a rich and deep-flavored American-style chili, except with ribbons of tender tripe mixed in with kidney beans and bell peppers.
I also tried the Beef Tartare, made with beef and raw oyster with miso mustard and sour cream. I do like surf and turf tartare, but this one didn’t work for me.
In Summary
It’s a happening spot for a casual drink. Despite the emphasis on their “swirl” technique, it is unpretentious and welcoming with warm hospitality.
It’s also meant to be a day drinking spot and opens early.
Swirl
Address: 577 Fuxing Zhong Lu 复兴中路577号
Hours: Mon-Thu & Sun, 3pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 3pm-1am
