Located next door to omakase restaurant Ochiyo is Noya, a new concept from Sun-San serving a set menu that highlights sukiyaki as the main course.
The Space
Compared to the light wooden counters of Ochiyo, Noya takes on a darker theme, sporting black lacquered tables and a few private rooms with comfortable tatami seating.
There are three options priced at ¥598, ¥698, and ¥980. I tried the ¥698 set, which felt like great value for the quality of ingredients. The menu includes around 10 courses.
There are some courses that criss-cross between Noya and Ochiyo, but it’s not anything to gripe about, as those courses are some of the best bites, like the wagyu tartare, A5 wagyu uni sushi, binchotan grilled beef, and the rice.
The meal kicks off strong with wagyu tartare topped with crab, sea urchin, and caviar. Next, a sashimi selection, featuring 3 to 4 pieces depending on availability. Unsurprisingly, the sashimi comes from Ochiyo next door.
Then comes a steamed dish: abalone and mushroom served as a soup in a teapot. First, sip the soothing broth (perfect for cold weather), then enjoy the treasures inside.
The char-grilled beef rib fingers follow. The rich cut of fatty, muscular meat is cooked over smoky binchotan charcoal and seasoned simply with salt and pepper, served with a side of wasabi.
To lighten the palate, there’s a herb salad with scallop sashimi and salmon roe, followed by a tempura course of jumbo Argentinian shrimp wrapped in maitake mushroom.
A luxurious piece of A5 wagyu sushi topped with sea urchin signals that the main beef course is on its way.
The sukiyaki is traditionally prepared outside the private rooms due to limited exhaust systems, but you can request it to be cooked table-side if you prefer the show. Personally, I like mine cooked in front of me — it reduces the amount of time the thin slices of beef travel from pot to plate, retaining temperature and tenderness.
The broth here is lighter than I typically prefer, but it still brings out the savory flavors of the M9 tenderloin and brisket.
The beef is served with a raw egg dip for creaminess, and is followed by a bowl of vegetables, tofu and chewy konjac noodles.
To ensure you leave full, there’s a rice dish with beef tongue and roasted eel.
Dessert options include seasonal fruits, yuzu ice cream, or a daily special. I ended with a refreshing strawberry jelly topped with mango sauce.
In Summary
One small note: I wish the sukiyaki came earlier in the course. But I understand the progression is designed to emphasize value, which it very much achieved. The menu flows well, offering a mix of luxurious, refreshing, crispy, and rich dishes.
I can’t speak for the other menus, but this one was solid. Again, dishes may vary depending on availability.
At the end of the day, it’s whether you prefer more sushi (Ochiyo) or more beef (Noya) for your meal.
