New at West Bund is Cilan Shanghai, a contemporary restaurant serving up cuisine from Western China with a modern twist, brought to you by Xibo founder Atina Kuo and chef Sean Bai (formerly INT).
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About Cilan
Cilan is located at West Bund within Gate M, a new complex just five minutes south of the West Bund Museum and Long Museum.
The restaurant is perched on the second floor and has a view overlooking the river. The intimate dining room seats 50, plus two tables on a small outdoor balcony. There is even a “chef’s table” for five next to the open kitchen.
As for the food, it’s a cross-cultural bridge between East and Western cuisines. Think house-made pastas with flavors derived from Chinese spices and fermented vegetables, Wuchang rice in place of Arborio for risotto, and lovable tacos inspired by roujiamo, the beloved “Chinese sandwich.”
Personally, I don’t think “fusion,” a dirty word often disliked by industry folk, does Cilan justice as a classification. The menu is more refined, thoughtful, and creative, yet still approachable and friendly on the wallet.
In addition, Atina Kuo and Sean Bai (白晓) have pooled their resources to bring some of the best ingredients from all over China to Shanghai. It is one of the founding principles of Cilan — to shine a spotlight on Chinese produce.
Some of these include wild morels foraged from the forests of Xinjiang, wild artemisia or wild tarragon from the northwestern mountain regions, Bachu mushrooms from the Huyang Forest, Qingyuan chicken from Guangdong, and more.
What To Order
To start, go for the Fresh Burrata. The burrata is made fresh locally in Shanghai and is never frozen. It has a dense milky and creamy quality that is worlds apart from the frozen alternative. The burrata comes with grapevine tomatoes from Gansu, sweet cherry tomatoes, crunchy green tomatoes, and gooseberries.
A punchy cold starter is the Marinated Pork, served with marinated radish slices and fresh mint salsa. It’s spicy and minty with crunchy textures. A more delicate appetizer is the Abalone Salad, dressed with house-made wild tarragon oil from Xinjiang.
Don’t miss the Buckwheat Tacos, inspired by roujiamo, but with considerably less grease. The buckwheat tacos are house-made fresh daily and make perfect vessels for the juicy shredded beef brisket and pickled chilies.
Snack-like appetizers also include Deep-Fried Taro Croquettes. The creamy-crunchy fritters are served with a mildly spicy chili sauce to dip.
My ultimate favorite dish is the Agnolotti with Xinjiang Morels. Fresh egg pasta is filled with ricotta and earthy morels foraged from the Xinjiang forests. It’s cooked to a perfect al dente and tossed in a fermented celery sauce, a sour broth with a gentle acidity inspired by Gansu’s Jiang Shui Noodles (浆水面).
In my opinion, the agnolotti is by far the most representative dish of Cilan’s cross-cultural cuisine. Don’t miss this!
Wuchang rice replaces traditional Arborio for a risotto served with meaty Xinjiang Bachu mushrooms, kernels of house-made bacon, and a rich serving of roasted bone marrow. The bacon is actually a type of crispy cured pork (脆哨) from Guizhou. It’s an unassuming dish that provides much comfort.
Another must-order is the Rosemary Smoked Qingyuan Crispy Skinned Chicken. The chicken is sourced from Guangdong, and is one of two coveted breeds known for its juiciness and taut meat. This bird undergoes a process of brining, air-drying, frying, smoking, and roasting before it is presented, and then carved up to serve.
The skin is shatteringly crispy with little to no fat, and the meat is lean, hella juicy, and flavorful.
The chicken is suitable for two to four people to share. For a smaller alternative, the Pigeon is also an excellent choice. The pigeon is marinated with Hancheng Peppercorns from Shanxi, then charcoal grilled to a juicy finish. It’s served over a bed of sautéed spinach.
West Chinese cuisine would not be complete without lamb making an appearance. The Grilled Lamb Chops from Inner Mongolia present with zero musk, a desirable quality for those adverse to lamb-y fragrance. The juicy yet lean cutlets are crusted in heady spices and served with a tasty ratatouille, a pairing of vegetables that could easily stand on its own as a side dish.
As for seafood, Cilan does most of them on the charcoal grill like their meat dishes. Though, a highlight has to be the whole grilled Threadfin fish, served with a tangy fermented tomato sauce and olives.
There is also steak on the menu, featuring a dry-aged grain-fed Australian M3 ribeye, served with a side of dragon beans stir-fried with Bachu mushrooms.
Speaking of mushrooms, the grilled Cauliflower Fungus also makes for a tasty side dish or starter. It’s served with a light parmesan sauce with roasted almonds and crispy Guizhou bacon. Simple and satisfying.
As Cilan is in soft opening, there are only two desserts available currently, an Apple Pie or Lily Bulb and Peach Gum, of which I recommend the latter.
Lily bulb is puréed to a smooth consistency and chilled, served in ice cream form. It’s a starchy root vegetable that has a unique sweetness. The lily bulb “ice cream” is excellent and is almost like whipped fromage blanc. It’s paired with peach gum, a natural resin from Chinese peach trees, an ingredient commonly found in soup-based desserts. It’s thick and gummy, as you can imagine, and jelly-like. It’s really quite unique.
In Summary
Favorite dishes: Buckwheat Tacos, Agnolotti with Xinjiang Morels, Qingyuan Chicken, Pigeon, Lamb, and Lily Bulb dessert.
Note: Some dishes have limited availability especially during the weekend.
Pets are allowed, but limited to certain areas of the restaurant. Please call ahead to ensure that there is a suitable space for your pet.
Nomfluence Readers Deals
Nomfluence readers get a complimentary drink when you scan to book via the link below! The deal is valid until November 11, 2024.
- One complimentary selected drink per person
Click here to book now!
Selected drinks include house wine, cocktails, and soft drinks. The deal is applicable for dine-in guests only.
Cilan
Address: No. 203, Bldg 6, Gate M, 2266 Longteng Dadao 龙腾大道2266号Gate M西岸梦中心6号楼203
Tel: 33682970
Hours: Daily, 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm