GEN (根) is a modern Guizhou restaurant in Jing’an, doing creative yet homey East-meets-West dishes alongside a thoughtful natural sake program.
It’s a genuine little find, from the fusion twists to the funky, fermented flavors that define the region.
Nomfluence Readers Deals: Complimentary Sake of the Day Tasting Pour (45ml).
About GEN
On Wuding Road, the entrance is hidden in plain sight. Come opening hour, a tiny doorway reveals a cozy, living room-like space.
The dining room is small, seating just over 20 people including the bar stools next to the sake station. Moody and dimly lit, the decor is absolute eye candy with eclectic furniture, beautiful wallpaper, and minority artwork and trinkets.
When it gets busy, they pull out a board, place it over a bicycle on the street, and create an impromptu sidewalk table. And this makeshift solution has become part of its charm.
The idea for GEN was born during lockdown, when neighbors Chef July and Dali (who runs the sake program) were kicking around a restaurant concept. Lo and behold, they made it a reality in 2024.
Dali also curates the playlist at GEN, a mix of ethnic house, Chinese minority music, and world sounds. It’s a soundtrack that really fuels the buzzy atmosphere of this hip spot.
As for the food, it’s a bit of East-meets-West. July, a Guizhou native, isn’t classically trained as a chef, but she’s always loved cooking. Previously working in hotel management then as a tattoo artist, she now finds herself in the kitchen, the path she’s most passionate about.
Dishes are made with Guizhou spices and ingredients from her home region — what July calls “southwest ingredients, creative cooking.” The menu changes every three months.
The vibe here is all about modern Chinese — Western influence rooted in local identity. And the people behind it? Pretty punk rock. Just look at the dish names.
The Food
Perhaps the most provocative name on the menu belongs to Bullshit King (¥108), a chunky Dai-style beef tartare that’s been lactic-acid fermented mixed with pork skin for texture, and seasoned with spices and chilies. It comes with tempura mulberry leaves as vessels for scooping.
It boasts a strong profile, and the raw single-clove garlic slices gives a spicy kick.
As a cold salad, the Antler Fluffy (¥58) stands on its own. It’s made with deer antler moss from Tibet, paired with fresh yam slices. The spongy and fibrous moss is blanched to remove its woody musk, then tossed in zippy dressing of vinegar, sesame oil, and chilies. Underneath, thick ribbons of shaved mountain yam impart a sticky, cool texture.
Another cold dish is My Octopus Teacher (¥98). A tender octopus leg is served like carpaccio with black olives for salinity. It’s light and mild, with grassy notes from the edible flowers, paired with a citrusy-woodsy litsea pungens smoked chili sauce.
Next up is One Ball After Another (¥28/three). House-made, lightly fermented tofu balls are deep-fried, then hollowed out and filled with a fermented tofu jam and edamame. They’re served with a sauce made from Chinese toon — a funky, seasonal ingredient that, when done well, has a complex aroma — and finished with Parmesan.
For something more substantial, Lord of Potato (¥128) dishes up purple potato cake with black truffle, topped with a generous amount of hand-picked hairy crab meat and salmon roe, spiced with Guizhou Zunyi chili powder. Inspired by the humble baked potato, this one plays with textures, boosted with unctuous crab and balsamic.
Frog on Slate (¥78) was one of my favorites. Fava beans are roughly mashed, mixed with guanciale, and pan-fried. It’s pleasantly beany and not at all dense, topped with crispy glutinous rice and perilla seeds and a bit of granulated sugar. It’s a sweet-savory combo, unique and satisfying.
The “Gold Weighs 300 Grams” (¥98) features pork chuck with homemade mint sauce. The pork is chewy, springy, and fatty, topped with tempura Sichuan peppercorn leaves, giving it a peppery-citrus finish. This was also a favorite.
Finally, Chef July’s comfort food: What A Wow Noodles (¥68). The Guizhou duck egg noodles are springy, wavy, and light-bodied, like cross between egg noodles and buckwheat. They’re served in a sour, tomato-based soup made with red and white sour, a fermented liquid essential to Guizhou cuisine.
The soup is tangy and flavorsome, with that unmistakable citrus-woody litsea pungens aroma plus the freshness of lime leaf. It comes topped with a generous fillet of fried sea perch.
Sake Program
Instead of wine or cocktails, GEN built its drinks program around sake. It’s a way to stand out, says Dali, and he’s taken it one step further by curating a non-traditional selection.
They have popular labels like Dassai, but the real focus is on organic, naturally fermented sakes. Some are closer to saisons, naturally fermented farmhouse ales with extreme acidity that work as palate openers or digestifs. Others carry notes of flowers or fruit.
Many are available by the glass, ¥68 to ¥128, all hand-picked by Dali, who’s always on hand to give a recommendation. They also do a sake tasting flight of six for ¥188.
The sakes are diverse. One pour was sweet, with strong lychee notes and a clean finish. Another was highly acidic, a natural sake that surprised with its brightness. One reminded me of huangjiu, but with a much drier finish. My favorite was a peach-forward pour — bright, fruity, and heavier-bodied.
GEN has a loyal following, and weekends can get busy. But the crowd is more casual regulars than a wanghong trap.
The food is genuine and from the heart. In the end, it’s a unique spot to settle in for a meal that just happens to double as an exploration of natural sake.
Book Now
Complimentary sake of the day tasting pour (45ml), limited one per person.
P/S: GEN is a dog-friendly venue.
