Mexican restaurant and bar Cantina Agave celebrates its 17th anniversary this Saturday, November 8.
Leading up to its anniversary, I sat down with founder Raffe Ibrahamian to discuss the weight of that legacy, the secret to Cantina’s longevity, and why, after all this time, he’s still having fun.
Cantina Agave, An Institution
17 years is a monumental feat in Shanghai’s ever-shifting F&B landscape. Since 2008, this cornerstone venue on the Fumin Lu strip has been more than just a restaurant; it’s a convergence point for all walks of life, a rare and cherished constant in a city of constant change.
Cantina Agave’s founder, Raffe Ibrahamian — known to all as “Wolf” — has been the driving force behind this institution. From a quiet corner he saw potential in, he built a community hearth where countless friendships, relationships, and memories have been forged over tacos and tequila.
The birth of Cantina Agave wasn’t born from a business plan, but from a primal, homesick craving. In the 90s, Raffe was in the garment industry, and had been trekking to Shanghai for work.
He found a city vibrant with everything except one essential comfort: a legitimate taco. A proper burrito that could hold its own against the giants of his native LA was a fever dream in a culinary desert.
Cantina Agave, 2008
It was a void that gnawed at him. Then came the catalyst: a bright idea, a fateful connection with the right partner, and a final “waking up” moment that pushed him over the edge. He pulled the plug on his entire life in LA, trading clothing for a shot at building a taco joint on a then-sleepy corner. It was a leap of faith, and from that necessity, an institution was forged.
This is a story of resilience, consistency, and understanding what a community needs.
Founder Raffe Ibrahamian on Cantina Agave, His Legacy
What does this milestone mean to you that earlier anniversaries didn’t? Why is the number 17 significant?
Raffe: Lasting this long in F&B is a big accomplishment for any restaurant anywhere in the world but especially in Shanghai. I’m humbled and grateful that we’re still here.
As for the number 17, it has always been our family’s favorite number. Both my kids were born on the 17th; it’s also the date when I proposed to my wife.
And it’s the number I always play on roulette. Why not take the opportunity to celebrate 17 years of Cantina.
In a city that constantly tears down and rebuilds, Cantina Agave has been a rare fixed point. What is the weight and responsibility of being that anchor for a community?
Raffe: When I first opened, the neighborhood was quiet. It was dead actually. There wasn’t anything on Fumin — not like what you see today. As for the community, I feel like we all grew up together, for the people who were here for the glory days, for those who left, those who stayed, and those who come back.
Imagine 17 years ago — kids who were born then are now in their teens and can come back to the place where their parents met.
As for responsibility? I claim zero responsibility.
Just kidding.
But I have to say, I do feel a certain pride when I think of, that for many, Cantina is where “it all began.”
Sometimes you just want to feel like there is still some consistency around you and I feel that’s something Cantina brings.
Cantina Agave feels like a convergence point for many people in Shanghai. You’ve probably witnessed lots. Any connections, friendships, proposals, or memories you’d like to share?
Raffe: There are quite a lot of stories that I can’t share. You know, adults-only stories. But there’s everything from people screwing in broad daylight to staff and friends who have met their significant others right here on this terrace. And that’s including you, Rachel.
I met my wife while signing for our location. She was the real estate agent for the building and now we have two kids. Somehow, I convinced her to open Cantina with me. The things that woman had to deal with over the years. I’m a lucky guy.
Some of my best friends I met at Cantina. They came when I first opened and are still with me now. Too many memories to start putting down on print.
What is the one core principle you have never compromised on in 17 years? What is the unglamorous secret?
Raffe: Staying consistent and always giving the customer a bang for their buck.
Also, if you haven’t noticed, I don’t do any of this fancy shit. No bullshit. Just comfort food. And some of those recipes? Straight from my mom.
Have you ever asked “why am I still doing this?”. What gets you genuinely excited?
Raffe: Honestly, I love what I do and I love having a place for my boys to hang out. It’s still fun for me.
I’ve had customers come to me and say that they used to live here years ago and had moved away but now are back visiting and are very happy to still see us here. It makes them nostalgic. And I guess, that’s a big motivator for me.
I’ll be here long after the cockroaches are gone.
Frozen margaritas. Unchanged since the day it opened.
What from the “old days” do you fondly remember, and what about today’s scene gives you energy?
Raffe: I miss the insanity from the old days when it was literally a party every single day. But I’m also getting older so I’m kind of happy it’s calmed down a bit.
Today’s scene is great. Also as our clientele has become more diverse with more Chinese customers appreciating our food and drinks. That puts a big smile on my face. It is totally different from ten years ago when our demographic was mostly foreigners.
Running Cantina, what is your biggest challenge today versus ten years ago?
Raffe: Keeping the place fresh by changing menus and dishes. Doing minor renovations. Ten years ago there weren’t a lot of restaurants around us whereas now they’re everywhere.
There’s less challenge about reinventing Cantina, because that’s not the point, but its rather about reminding people that we’re still here. People are off chasing the best “new thing” when really what they want is to eat tacos in their pajamas. OK, maybe not pajamas when you’re at the restaurant, but fine for delivery at home. Delivery is a love-hate thing too, but I won’t go too deep into that.
Tell me about this tequila I keep hearing about. Are you launching it at Cantina too?
Raffe: I am doing my own tequila which will launch next year. Been a long time in the works and it’s finally getting to the finish line. And you can bet we will launch it at Cantina with a big ass party.
Your kids have grown up around Cantina and the F&B life. What do you hope they learn from it and your journey?
Raffe: 100% do not get into F&B.
They [the kids] grew up in Cantina since they were born which is good as they have a lot of adopted aunts and uncles.
I would hope being in this environment, they would have learned about patience and hard work, because they’ve seen mom and dad go through a lot, especially during the Covid years.
What does the future hold for Cantina Agave?
Raffe: Well, I’ve always wanted to celebrate our 20-year anniversary. After that, maybe I’ll take a step back and see what the future holds.
Any closing words before the party on Saturday, November 8?
Raffe: A big huge thank you to everyone that has supported us! There’s no Cantina Agave without you!
Cantina Agave turns 17 on Saturday, November 8. The party runs from…. well, kind of all-day if you think about it.
But there will be a DJ from 8pm to midnight, during which time free tequila shots will also be doled out every hour. Drink specials run from 6pm to late.
Happy 17th Cantina!
All images provided.
Cantina Agave
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