Serial omakase restaurateur Sun-San, the name behind Ochiyo and Uni Shushi, among others, opened his latest spot at Plaza 66 late last year: Love Sushi (瑷鮨). It’s a small operation, just a 10-seat counter and a private room for four, tucked on the top floor of the mall.
Behind the counter is Ma Shifu (马建), a chef with over 20 years of experience who previously was based in Shenzhen. Lunch runs ¥690 and ¥980; dinner is ¥980 and ¥1,280.
Ma Shifu is from Anhui. He started cooking Japanese food in 2004, left for Shenzhen in 2019, and recently returned to Shanghai.
He specializes in kaiseki. The difference between kaiseki and omakase is subtle but real: omakase tends to be sushi-focused, with the chef acting as host and entertainer. Kaiseki follows a more structured rundown with appetizers, sashimi, seasonal hot and cold dishes, grilled items, etc. (The terms get thrown around interchangeably, sometimes incorrectly. Semantics.)
Since Love Sushi falls under the Sun-San umbrella, ingredient quality is solid. First-pick fresh catch of geoduck, sea urchin, abalone, and king crab finds its way onto the menu. Regulars often request “++” menus to secure the best stuff. If you’re curious, the restaurant manager Ayumi is on WeChat: a31824373.
A heartwarming chawanmushi kicks things off, this one with king crab and shrimp.
Sashimi follows: buttery scallops, striped horse mackerel (shima aji), fatty tuna, and mackerel.
A grilled pigeon leg signals the start of the hot dishes. Brined and dry-aged, the flavor is rich and concentrated.
Then tempura: spring bamboo and sea urchin alongside shirako — a delicacy I’m highly fond of, though I understand it might not be for everyone.
A palate cleanser of cool surf clams with crunchy cucumbers and savory dashi jelly arrives as an intermission before the sushi begins.
The sushi comes piece by piece, scored and torched, marinated and brushed. Velvety squid with a subtle sweetness. Torched belly, umami-rich and intensely fatty. Soft, pillowy scallops with a dash of fresh yuzu. Lean flounder with an almost crunchy spring to its flesh.
The sushi parade is followed by a seared steak with yuzu kosho, then a jumbo handroll loaded with sea urchin.
Just when I thought it was over, a massive maki roll landed on the table, stuffed with assorted sashimi cuts. Pure luxury and definitely a two-biter.
It ends with soup and sorbet, the standard omakase finisher.
Don’t let the mall location deter you. Love Sushi is one of the few quality omakase spots in Jing’an, and once you’re seated at the counter, it’s pure indulgence — you’ll forget where you are.
Love Sushi
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