Modern Chinese restaurants are having a moment in Shanghai, and Pepper Tree is one of the more interesting newcomers.
About Pepper Tree
The restaurant is the latest from Chef Ling — the mind behind popular steakhouse StoneSal and private dining concept HIK9 — and it’s an ambitious one.
The approach? Chinese spices, herbs, and fermented and cured ingredients as the backbone, paired with global produce and Ling’s prowess in Western cuisine. It’s Chinese for sure, but with a distinct western hand.
The space sits somewhere between a family banquet room and a posh bistro — warm and welcoming, but with enough drama from the high ceilings, plush upholstery, and grand chandeliers to remind you that this place is made for special occasions. There are also two private rooms for six and ten, elegant and a little more subdued in decor compared to the main dining room.
The Food
Start with the Century Egg (¥78), served with salmon roe, charred pepper, and chardonnay sauce. The egg is custardy and creamy, a little funky but not overwhelming. The salmon roe adds a pop of salinity and the spiced soy sauce ties it together. I’d definitely order this again.
Few Chinese restaurants go without a cold dish of Jellyfish (¥58), and Pepper Tree doesn’t disappoint. Served in large cubes rather than the usual wispy cut, it’s dressed in soy bean paste, chili, vinegar, and sesame oil. It delivers crunch and a pleasant tang.
The Smoked Amberjack (¥168) is a signature worth ordering. Dry-aged, smoked, then confit in a twelve-spice herb olive oil that includes Sichuan peppercorns, the fish comes out silky, clean-tasting with a hint of smokiness and mild numbing finish.
And then there’s the Spicy Wagyu Ham (¥108) — no surprise there’s a dish like this here, given Ling’s dry-aging work at StoneSal. Condensed beefy flavor, naturally sweet with a hint of spice. Luxurious.
I’m a huge fan of the Pork Trotter (¥288), which comes blanketed in black truffle because why not. The trotter is slow-braised to tender submission, coated in a thick caramelized sauce made with Yunnan sour cowpeas, black garlic, soy, and honey. It’s a melt-in-your-mouth bite that absolutely begs for rice.
The Baby Moringa (¥68), young shoots stir-fried with Italian pancetta, is a light and refreshing crunch between the richer dishes.
For carbs, the Cured Pork Rice (¥158) is essential. Cured pork from Guizhou, Sichuan, and Shaanxi is cooked directly with rice so the fat and smoky flavors absorb into the dish. It’s finished with Yunnan sweet bamboo shoots, quick-pickled vegetables, and crispy pork lardons. Deeply satisfying.
The Arugula Wontons in Chicken Broth (¥98) are more of a curiosity — arugula-filled wontons in a crystal-clear, intensely flavored chicken broth. Unique and it works.
Off-Menu
In addition to the menu, Ling does a lot of off-menu specials with seasonal ingredients. Hyper seasonality creates demand, and that’s what keeps his regulars coming back. I managed to sample a few, though, some may no longer be available.
On that visit, a Heart of Palm Salad (¥158), New Zealand razor clams (¥388) of superior quality, and an Eel (¥288) wok-fried with cured pork that was fantastic — a little smoky and peppery with super tender eel, salted beans for an umami kick, and red peppercorns.
In Summary
It’s confident, chef-driven cooking — Chinese at heart, Western in technique. Impressive given that Chef Ling spent the past decade-plus cooking Western food.
Pepper Tree
View the listing here.
