This season’s hyped up new opening in Shanghai is Bastard, a contemporary Chinese eatery in Jing’an serving small bites and natural wine, led by chef Michael Janczewski (Juke) and Jiro (formerly Bird, Bitter).
Bastard has quite the unique location, situated all the way at the end of the residential lane, in a building that was once a popular youth hostel. It’s a small, ultra-stylish space with seating for about 25 people. They’ve really made a bold statement with the interiors, juxtaposing industrial walls with bright magenta tables and a neon-lit metal-top bar. It’s so hip. It’s one of those places where you go to be seen.
The menu is a hodgepodge of dishes inspired by Chinese cuisines and flavors, which are then mixed up with Asian and Western influences. Like the name suggests, they seek to “bastardize” Chinese food with an inventive, tasty twist. Shanghai is chock-a-block with wine bars, but Bastard’s boldness in food and vibe makes them stand out from the crowd.
For drinks, cocktails (highballs) from ¥78, wines by the glass from ¥78, beer from ¥58. But it’s mostly wine.
There is no doubt that the food at Bastard is tasty. However, the sticker shock is a lot to bear for the small plate portions. It is pricey almost to the point of fury. A single eel spring roll for ¥68 and Dan Dan Mian for ¥78 is exorbitant, because while delicious, it’s not particularly new, exciting, nor inventive. A great name, a great concept in theory, but it falls short on expectation.
Dinner was ¥900 for two without alcoholic drinks, and having ordered nearly the entire menu, both me and my dining companion left full, but only “just full.” I wouldn’t recommend it as a dinner date spot, as tables are tightly packed, almost mushed together, and the volume quite loud. But otherwise, it’s a hip and lively setting that’s better enjoyed with friends.
Bastard
View the listing here.
